There are some skincare ingredients that sound straight-up luxurious—and rosehip oil is one of them. A bubble bath accessorized with rose petals is peak self-care. The flower is equally welcome in fragrant perfumes. Certainly a rosehip oil deserves a place in your skincare routine as well, right? Well, maybe. According to dermatologists, rosehip oil does have specific skincare benefits, but it may not always be worth the money. As with most everything in the skincare realm, it depends on your specific needs. Here’s what you need to know before you click “add to cart.”
What exactly is rosehip oil?
“Rosehip oil is an oil that is extracted from the seeds of rose bushes,” Stanford-, New York University-, and Harvard-trained dermatologist Nkem Ugonabo, MD, explains. While rose oil is extracted from rose petals, rosehip oil is extracted from the seeds and fruit of the rose plant. There are a few different methods for extracting the oil from the seeds and fruit. One is through cold-pressing in which the fruit and seeds are crushed and pressed without using heat. Once they are crushed, the oil is strained. Another method is called supercritical extraction. This process doesn’t use heat either and uses carbon dioxide to extract the oil. The third way is through solvent extraction, which uses chemicals and heat to extract the oils. Cold-pressed and supercritical extraction are said to produce higher quality rosehip oil because heat exposure lessens the nutrient density. Just like many cooking oils derived from seeds, like olive oil and avocado oil, Dr. Ugonabo says that rosehip oil is rich in essential fatty acids, including omega-3s and omega-6s, vitamin C, and vitamin E. But unlike cooking oils, rosehip oil is applied topically and not consumed. So are you still getting the benefits?
What are the benefits of rosehip oil?
According to dermatologist Deirdre O’Boyle Hooper, MD, the fact that rosehip oil has these beneficial fatty acids as well as being high in antioxidants does provide benefits to the skin but it doesn’t work the same way as foods with these nutrients because the oil is not penetrating the skin. For example, foods with vitamin E and fatty acids are scientifically linked to slowing skin aging, but they are working from the inside out as these nutrients are being consumed through food. “Your skin is meant to be a barrier and keep things out, so unless a skincare product has been specifically formulated to penetrate down into your skin, it’s mostly just going to work as a very nice moisturizer,” she says. It’s for this reason, she says, that many of the claims about rosehip oil are likely exaggerated. That said, it doesn’t mean rosehip oil is completely useless. Dr. Hooper already called out one major benefit: It’s moisturizing. “Vitamin-containing oils like rosehip oil are lovely to use if you have sensitive or dry skin,” she says. “If your skin is chronically dry or chapped, a moisturizer will help reduce redness and flakiness, so that’s when it can be really nice.” Modern Dermatology partner and co-ownerRhonda Klein, MD, MPH, FAAD, says that another benefit of rosehip oil is that it can help reduce skin inflammation, thanks to its antioxidant qualities. “It contains antiviral, antibacterial, and antifungal properties as well as soothing anti-inflammatory benefits,” she says. Dr. Hooper agrees that rosehip oil can help protect against some inflammation-causing culprits we come in contact with every day. “Antioxidants help soak up free radicals, which are produced in response to skin damage, pollution, and all kinds of environmental insults to your skin,” she says. Dr. Klein also says that rosehip oil could potentially help with acne. “The antimicrobial properties may help to address the bacterial element of acne, while the vitamin E can help reduce inflammation, and vitamin A helps to keep skin cells turning over,” she says. So rosehip oil can be beneficial for people with dry or acne-prone skin. But what if you have oily skin? Dr. Hooper says people with this skin type need less moisture so rosehip oil may not be their best bet. “It’s also important to know that what your skin needs vary day by day,” she says. If the environment around you has changed (hello crazy spring weather), if you’re traveling, or if you’ve been sick can all affect skin health. Additionally, Dr. Ugonabo says people using a retinoid shouldn’t use rosehip oil since the oil contains retinoic acid.
What to keep in mind when buying and using rosehip oil
If you’ve decided that you want to give rosehip oil a try, the experts say there are a few factors to keep in mind to make sure you’re really getting your money’s worth. “Rosehip oil should be packaged in a dark glass bottle to preserve the oil’s benefits, and should be stored out of the sun,” Dr. Klein says. She also says it’s one of the more sensitive oils and has a shelf-life of about six months. So if a rosehip oil has been hiding in your bathroom cabinet for over a year, it’s time to throw it out and get a new one. Dr. Ugonabo recommends applying rosehip oil to a test spot before applying it all over your face—just to make sure you won’t have a bad reaction to it. “There is always a chance of irritation, so if you have sensitive skin, do a test patch on a small area on your inner forearm for a few days,” she says. She also says that if you use a topical vitamin A product (retinol), the rosehip oil may irritate your skin because it’s also high in vitamin A. “Start slowly, every two to three nights and see how your skin reacts,” she recommends. Once you’re in the clear, Dr. Ugonabo says the best way to use rosehip oil is in the morning and night. “It should be applied after any topical prescribed products and before your SPF,” she says. Rosehip oil may not change your life, but if you have dry skin, it can be a nice moisturizer and a way to show your skin some extra love. And just like those rose petals in your bubble bath, it just might make you feel extra special, a little luxury to start or end your day with. Next up, find out how to develop a skincare routine that actually works.
Sources:
Nkem Ugonabo, MD, dermatologist and an American Society for Dermatologic Surgery Cosmetic Dermatologic Surgery Fellow at UnionDermDeirdre O’Boyle Hooper, MD, board-certified dermatologist who specializes in cosmetic, medical, and laser dermatologyRhonda Klein, MD, MPH, FAAD, partner and co-owner of Modern Dermatology
