What sounds like a luxury skincare treatment is something that is actually very accessible to everyone. It can even be done at home with no spa trip needed, with almost immediate results. So what is dermaplaning, and what should you know before performing this DIY skin treatment? We asked the experts to break down the biggest myths and biggest mistakes about this growing skincare trend.
What is dermaplaning?
Dermaplaning was first described in studies in the 1970s and involves removing the top layers of the epidermis (and by default, also some hair) by shaving them off with a blade. In some instances, this is a scalpel or surgical blade, which is why some states require physician supervision. In many cases, a licensed esthetician can perform the service and thanks to the advent of at-home dermaplaning tools, it can even be a DIY treatment. “The biggest difference between professional and DIY dermaplaning is the blade: in office, we use a surgical blade, which is very sharp and reduces the risk of chafing and irritation,” explains Michelle Martin-Thomas, medical aesthetician at Schweiger Dermatology Group in Philadelphia, PA. “DIY blades are usually—hopefully—safety blades that have a guard mechanism built into the blade. This makes it harder to cut yourself, but you run the risk of causing irritation or bumps.” Martin-Thomas also stresses that dermaplaning is a form of exfoliation; it is for maintenance rather than long-term results. Even research concludes that results won’t be dramatic, but instead work as one part of a well-rounded skincare routine.
What can you expect in the days after dermaplaning?
As stated, dermaplaning is about exfoliating the skin, making it brighter in appearance. If done correctly, dead skin and hair will be removed, thus some results can be seen right away as the skin will immediately feel smooth. “You will notice your skin looks brighter and your skin feels fantastic immediately after your treatment,” notes Dr. Michael Somenek, a double board-certified facial plastic surgeon based in Washington, D.C. “However, it will take about two or three days after the treatment to see the full benefits.” Because dermaplaning is a maintenance procedure, Dr. Somenek acknowledges the best results appear after three to six treatments and won’t produce permanent results. “Most people immediately experience glowy, dewy skin,” adds Martin-Thomas. “It really is a treatment with results you can see right away. That glow should last for a few days up to a week.”
What are the benefits of dermaplaning?
Besides providing exfoliation, if done correctly, there are a number of added benefits for the skin. Dr. Somanek notes other benefits of dermaplaning include:
Promotes smoother skinDiminishes fine lines and wrinklesReduces appearance of acne scarsRemoves facial hair that traps oil and dirtHelps with deeper product penetrationEvens out skin tone
What are the side effects of dermaplaning?
Dermaplaning isn’t for everyone, and Martin-Thomas stresses that if you have acne, you shouldn’t dermaplane. “A potential downside is possible irritation for someone whose skin is already on the sensitive side,” she adds. Should you choose to dermaplane at home on your own rather than seeing a professional, you also risk the chance of cutting or nicking your skin. This can lead to irritation, especially if using improper techniques. If you have sensitive skin or acne, it isn’t advised that you do a DIY dermaplaning treatment (and may want to avoid dermaplaning altogether). Seeing a specialist is always advised to eliminate the risk of harming your skin.
What are tips for dermaplaning at home?
If you choose to dermaplane yourself, always make sure you have a dermaplaning tool versus trying to use a blade or razor. Dermaplaning should be performed on clean, dry skin. Experts recommend stretching the skin you are running the tool over, holding the tool at an angle and using small strokes. This not only gives you more control, but also helps you avoid cutting your skin (which is very easy to do). As Martin-Thomas notes, do not dermaplane skin currently experiencing acne or sensitive patches to avoid skin damage or further irritation.
Will dermaplaning cause hair to grow back thicker?
Both Martin-Thomas and Dr. Somenek are in agreement that the biggest myth about dermaplaning is that it causes facial hair to grow back darker and thicker. In fact, the idea that any hair grows back thicker after shaving is false, according to Dr. Somenek, who explains it only feels this way because each hair grows back with a blunt tip after being cut with a razor. “Cutting the hair does not change the regrowth process and there is no science behind hair growing back thicker or darker after shaving,” reassures Dr. Somenek. “When you dermaplane, you remove fine hair called vellus hair. The hair is very thin, so when you remove it with a dermaplaning tool, there will be no impact on how it looks when it grows back.” If there is any question about whether dermaplaning is the right addition to your skincare routine, contacting your dermatologist or seeking out a professional is advised. They can not only perform the treatment, but can also make sure it is part of a larger plan to maintain a bright and clear complexion. Next up, read up on the six essential steps of any perfect skincare routine.
Sources
Dr. Michael Somenek, a double board-certified facial plastic surgeon based in Washington, DCMichelle Martin-Thomas, medical aesthetician at Schweiger Dermatology Group in Philadelphia, PAPryor L, Gordon CR, Swanson EW, Reish RG, Horton-Beeman K, Cohen SR. Dermaplaning, topical oxygen, and photodynamic therapy: a systematic review of the literature. Aesthetic Plast Surg. 2011;35(6):1151-1159.
